Yes, that Nuremberg. Famous now not for their cute little sausages, or their historic old town, but for trials and rallies and all things Nazi. It’s a part of their past that I’m sure the locals would love to forget, but it will likely always be there. Still, there’s much more to Nuremberg today than its part in Germany’s darkest chapter. For one thing, it gave birth to yours truly, which has always granted it a special place in my thoughts. For another thing, it’s a truly pretty, fun city to visit. The old town, at least, which is the only part that I’ve gotten around to in my two visits there (not counting those initial nine months, that is). Not sure how much of the city Dad got around to visiting back in the day (he spent most of his time either at the base at nearby Grafenwöhr or driving about the countryside and down to Salzburg, it seems. Probably best let him fill in those details sometime).
We took the train into town, then checked into our hotel, a nice but extremely overpriced Le Meridian right next to the station (used leftover hotel points from my Krakow work days – nice to have those come in handy after all this time). It was to be a two night stay, and we would be meeting up with our friends Todd and Melanie, whom we met in Kansas City and who moved back to Germany a year or two back (She’s German, he’s ex-army and is now apparently working freelance in Iraq most of the time, so is rarely home.) Besides that, our only real agenda was to see the sights (again sticking to the old city, which in Nuremberg’s case is fairly easy to do as the whole thing is surrounded by a nice big stone wall).
It was an afternoon arrival. We unpacked, unwound, then headed in to the center. Our first stop was St. Lorenz Church. We didn’t go inside, but merely made it a meeting point for Melanie and the girls. As we were a bit early, we toured the nearby streets, indulged in some great roasted (and sugared) peanuts, macadamia nuts and cashews, and just generally got a feel for the place. It was a lively setting. Lots of tourists from all over, booths and tents set up for general browsing. The weather was cool and pleasant. I was almost sorry when six o’clock rolled around and we met up with the Strobels for dinner plans (nothing personal, Strobels. Just a measure of how much I was enjoying the meandering).
Once Melanie arrived, we headed over to a local restaurant (forget the name) and settled in for some of the famous Nuremberg brats (small in size, I liken them to American breakfast sausages in many ways – love ‘em!). The food was good, the company enjoyable, the wait interminable. Seriously, even by lax European standards these guys were SLOOOOW. And it’s not like the place was packed, quite the opposite. All I can figure is that, when we arrived and ordered, they decided it was time to start the grill, and then they went about it the old-fashioned, boy scout way – rubbing a couple of sticks together! Afterwards we took a short walk, grabbed some ice cream, and enjoyed the sights. As we parted ways, we agreed to meet up again on Thursday, as Todd was supposed to be back in Germany and wanted to be a part of things.
The next morning we headed out for breakfast at a little nearby café, then toured some more. We had no grand designs beyond seeing the castle, and possibly a dungeon underneath the old city hall. I spend most of my time (as I had during the evening stroll before) looking for likely spots to employ my Mr. Bill toy. I had picked up this replica of the popular Saturday Night Live character from the late 70s when last in KC, but hadn’t fully recognized its potential until my Dad asked me what photos I had taken with it. Since that time (mostly during the last Upper Austria trip), we had been amusing ourselves by placing the poor little guy into dangerous situations and snapping his photo. Lukas was helping, naturally. I mention this only because I fully intend to upload the results, and figure that a little explanation wouldn’t hurt…
We hit the castle a bit before noon. It is truly a great looking castle, IMO. Just the right blend of impressive towers and imposing walls. Not one where a lot of interior viewing is available, though. We did the “tour”, and it consisted of seeing some medieval weapons and then going to hear about their impressively deep well. Afterwards we climbed the tower and took a number of snapshots from every angle (Yes, I did make it to the top and yes, I did think I was going to die. Might, just might mind you, might be time to hit the gym. Maybe.) Lukas and I conspired to get him up on top of some lofty rocks and take a few photos, and we used the baby as another prop whenever the opportunity presented (well, they’re not good for much else at that age, are they? J).
Next was a bit of souvenir shopping, followed by another meet-up with the Strobels. This time Todd joined us, and it was really fun to see him interact with the girls, who had obviously missed daddy while he was away. I haven’t said much about the girls yet, so here’s as likely a place as any. Hannah is, not surprisingly, turning into a very cute young lady (after being a very cute little girl, I should add). She’s getting a bit of the teen ‘tude, but not so much that one can’t enjoy her company. Helena, who was a baby the last time I saw her, was cute as a button. I didn’t see much of that side the first night, but during the second meeting all of her inhibitions dropped and she sat on everyone’s lap, chatted up a storm, and generally showed off an impish personality. Definitely made me think about trying for a daughter of my own, I must admit…
After Anita was conned into turning some sort of fertility ring (don’t ask, I didn’t) by Judy, we set off for a festival a few blocks over, wherein we grabbed a table and proceeded to down a sampling of ribs and steaks, sausages and potatoes, and possibly imbibed a few brews along the way. Much deliberation was given as to what to do afterwards, and we split into groups. Melanie and Hannah went to find a quiet spot to get some homework done and the rest of us hiked around the western side of the old town, viewing Alfred Durer’s house, some more ugly statues (which seem to be quite popular in Nuremberg for some unknown reason) and finally some classic houses. No way to convey the looks of these properly. Just go see the photos if you haven’t already!
Todd and I then, somehow, talked our way into a further splintering and promptly took off for O’Shea’s, the local Irish pub, where we nabbed an outdoor table, smoked Cuban cigars that he’d picked up in Iraq, sipped Irish whiskey and chased them both with some Guiness. Tough life, I know. The rest met up with us shortly after the smoke cleared and we enjoyed a decent pub-style dinner, though the fries were a definite weak point. I thoroughly enjoyed having a conversation with someone who could really relate to my own situation (not so many KC guys married to German-speaking wives who have moved their families halfway around the world, even among my varied expat community). After dinner we said our goodbyes, then headed back to the hotel. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening in, where the boys stayed with their grandparents for a while. And that’s all I’ll say on that matter…
Thursday was our return date, but we had a bit of time to kill before our train was scheduled to depart. Well, it was a lot of time (4pm ticket time), until one factors in our slow, gentle wake up, and even slower time to get ready and get out for another breakfast, then back to pack. Still, we found ourselves with a few hours to kill/fill, and tried once more to fit in the dungeon tour (after another enjoyable bratwurst lunch at a restaurant which had their grill up and running even before we arrived…). The dungeon was suitably dank and creepy. I, of course, remember very little of what was said, even though my German is now good enough to catch most of the presentation. I was too busy finding new and exciting photo opportunities for Lukas, Liam and Mr. Bill. Hey, it’s not every day that one finds oneself in a dungeon!
Not much more to tell. We caught the train home. Dad and I got off and Linz and drove the rest of the way to Vienna. They were here for several more days afterwards, in which time we threw the first of about a half dozen birthday parties for Lukas’ sixth. Then it was time for departure. The house needed taken care of back in Weatherby Lake, and Logan and Quinn were undoubtedly looking forward to Grandma and Grandpa’s return, not to mention Grandma Betty and Grandpa Glenn. Still, it was a good test run. I think that when they return in 2012 (okay, maybe 2013) we’ll really be ready to rock!